Generation Seven 2012 Nouveau: A Wine Review and Further Thoughts on Nouveau Wines

I’m a little late to the party, with this, but I really liked the Generation Seven Nouveau, a young, 2012 gamay produced by the Bosc family, the folks at Château des Charmes. It was released on November 15, the Thursday on which Beaujolais Nouveau is also unleashed on the wine-drinking world.

Why produce a Nouveau when Beaujolais Nouveau has been getting such a bad rap, these last few years? Well, for one thing, with such a sunny vintage, this year, it’s surely tempting to have people taste its fruit as soon as possible. And second, nouveau wine is fun: it is great to taste wine as it has just finished fermentation and is in its earliest, most primal form, all fruit-forward and fresh.

This is precisely what the G7 Nouveau delivers. A burst of bright red fruit, clean and precise, ripe and fresh, with just a tiny smidgeon of that pepper character that can also be such a nice component of gamay. It’s fun, quaffable stuff, and at $11.95 a bottle, that’s exactly what you want in a wine. Better that than loads of cheaply-done acid and oak additions, as far as I’m concerned.

It’ll put a little bit of harvest sunshine into any winter day, and if you’re lucky enough to be in Ontario, you can still buy some at the LCBO.

Perhaps the hype around Nouveau Day has just had a bit of a boomerang effect. Maybe it made that fun wine seem like too much of a serious thing. Whatever the case may be, I think the pendulum against bojo nouveau may just have swung too far to the negative.

When I was in New York City, a few days ago, I stopped by my favorite wine shop in the city, Frankly Wines, and owner Christy Frank had a couple of Beaujolais Nouveau open (by Maison PUR and Dupeuble), which I gladly tasted. They were bright and delicious, showing a lovely, sunny disposition. Real wine, though in an über-youthful form. Which should be nothing to frown at.

Maybe we should care more about the contents of the bottle – which, when good producers create them, will be truly good – and less on the release day and all the hype that goes around it. Generally, wine is better that way – whether nouveau or patiently aged.

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