The first whiff of this wine brought me back to memories of my youth. My grandparents often served riesling at family parties, and it had that particular aroma of limes, with kerosene or white petroleum jelly, as well as mineral notes and a lively acidity. For me, it’s like a very basic definition of what white wine should smell like.
So the Kilikanoon 2004 Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling was a terrific surprise for me, when I bought it as part of the latest Cellier Magazine Arrivals. Sourced entirely from a low-yielding single vineyard – Mort’s Block – planted 40 years ago by the winery’s founder, it yields a tightly wound, bright riesling with terrific acidity and well-focused flavours. Intense, just a touch dry on the palate, it feels like it has a great aging potential, something I wouldn’t mind patiently exploring over the next decade.
With alcohol levels kept at a very reasonable 12%, for the 2004 vintage, the wine is exceptionally refreshing, and displays very good length, and great varietal character. A great buy.